How deep should the seed be planted?

On the back of our seed bags we always try to write the sowing depth when sowing. If the seeds are light-germinating, we mention this, which means that the seed should not be covered with soil, without needing light to germinate. However, it is important when sowing light-germinating seeds that it does not have time to dry out. Since it lies on the surface and has no moist soil around it, it can therefore dry out more easily. We recommend and always use a thin layer of Vermiculite over light-germinating seeds. The light passes through and it binds moisture, which helps to keep the seed moist on the surface.

• The size of the seed usually determines how deep it should be sown.
• The smaller the seeds, the thinner the layer of soil needed.
• Very small seeds are usually light-germinating and should not be covered at all, while larger seeds should be planted deeper.
• You can often go for seeds to be sown about twice as deep as the size of the seed
• A seed is loaded with everything it needs to germinate, until it reaches the surface and gets the first cotyledons, which then convert light into nutrients to create the characteristic leaves.
• If you plant the seed too deep, it will not have time to reach the surface and form leaves before the seed's stored nutrients run out and the seed dies.
   

The advantage of using both seed soil and potting soil at the same time when sowing

Most seeds should be sown in seed soil, as it is poorer in nutrients than potting soil, and when the seed has grown a little, it should be replanted in P-soil.

When we do our sowing, we almost always use 2/3 potting soil at the bottom and 1/3 with seed soil on top. This way, you don't have to replant the seeds after they get big and need to end up in a little more nutritious soil that is found in the potting soil. The small roots reach the right depth when they have grown after sprouting in the seedbed. This saves time and the seeds can remain longer before needing to be replanted.

The nutrients in the planting soil last for about 4 weeks.

Stratification

Stratification means "cold treating" the seeds, and is not as complicated as it sounds.

Some seeds, especially perennials, need, according to their natural life cycle, a cold period before they can germinate. Like a seed that falls on the ground in late summer and lies dormant during the winter to then germinate when it gets warmer.

By stratifying the seeds, you trick them into germinating, by first putting them in the cold, about 0-4 degrees.

Sow them as usual according to the instructions and then put them either in the refrigerator or outdoors for a couple of weeks, and then bring them to the heat to germinate. If nothing happens, put them back in the cold and repeat.

Hardy annuals

Are you also one of those who have a lot of seeds sown indoors in the spring? Then we can advise you to grow some of the so-called "hardy annuals".

In our seed shop, we mention on almost all seeds what type of seed it is, whether they are hardy, semi-hardy or regular annuals, as well as perennials.

By growing hardy annuals, you have the opportunity to leave more space on the shelves indoors in the spring. These annuals can handle cold conditions better than regular annuals, which cannot handle cold at all.

So to avoid having too many seeds sown indoors in March, as it is a month when you often have a lot of seeds going, this time should instead be for planting out the hardy annuals.

So if you check when your last frost date is, count back about 6 weeks to find the planting date outdoors, and count back another 6 weeks from the planting date for the start date to start sowing indoors under lights.

So you start sowing the hardy annuals indoors under grow lights about 12 weeks before your last spring frost.

After about 6 weeks indoors, you plant the hardy annuals outdoors instead, under fiber cloth. That means there are about 6 weeks left before the last spring frost.

Remember not to plant the plants out if it is too cold, then it is better to wait for a milder climate just to plant them out and cover with fiber cloth.

You must always keep in mind that you can fail with sowing, but it is still a lot of fun when you succeed and by trying your hand you only learn even more.

Perlite & Vermiculite

Both Perlite and Vermiculite help retain moisture in the soil.

Perlite is used to both make the soil more airy, drain and retain moisture in the soil. It has a porous structure, so the perlite absorbs a certain amount of the moisture in the soil, which is released when needed.

Vermiculite retains moisture, slightly longer than Perlite. In the soil, the vermiculite absorbs moisture and keeps the soil moist for a longer time. Feel free to mix it into the soil for those seeds that like to stay moist.

Vermiculite can also be used as a thin cover on the sowing surface, which will help the surface retain its shape better and prevent both moss formation and midges from settling down.